Limerick, IRELAND (Irish Climbing Coaching) – What is motivation? Sage in 1977 defined motivation as “the direction and intensity of one’s effort”. Though accurate, for me, this is too objective and sterile a view. Motivation is something very personal and may not always make much sense to anyone other than the individual concerned. In a global sense it’s something that stirs the soul and sends excited shivers through your body, sometimes it’s so powerful that it consumes you – every unoccupied moment is spent dreaming. More specifically for me in climbing terms; It’s the perfect line, the opening sequence to Underdeveloped, good times in nice places with close friends, a tiny improvement on a current project. A throw-away comment from a peer?
As a Junior at a climbing comp., I somewhat foolishly revealed a major personal ‘dream’ to a well known and respected climber on the scene then. I was told I was being unrealistic and the word ‘never’ was actually used, but I didn’t have the confidence to tell them exactly where to go and so shrugged it off. This one, small and careless comment had other plans however. It stuck fast in my mind and soon – I was consumed, it burned like a fire inside of me. I began training hard every day, with hindsight I was very lucky not to injure myself and also lucky that the age I was at meant the gains made, became a very solid foundation for the future.
7 years later, one of my closest friends and I found ourselves locked into respective long-term projects, in a well known climbing area in North Wales. Matt was attempting a long, sustained line right at his limit. Three months of focused effort found him falling from the final insecure moves, far beyond the crux, tens of times. My own efforts focused on a mere 6 moves right at my limit of the time. In my case, failure was much swifter. 3 moves in I met what was to become my Nemesis, one move shy of still hard, but less insecure ground. I fell from that move somewhere in the region of 400-500 times (this is not an exaggeration), many times almost reaching the key heel hook. The drives home following these sessions were quiet affairs, usually interrupted by random and unprovoked expletives or moans of “why” and “so close”, escapee’s from a tormented internal dialogue? We both understood.
Success for both of us came on the same day a short while later. Matt keeping it together for the last few moves of his line before latching the final hold screaming and clearly elated. Spurred on by his effort, I gave everything to holding the swing, reaching the heelhook and sketching my way to the top of my own Nemesis. The pressure instantly lifted, but this felt different, there were the usual shouts of success etc. but something was missing. Unfortunately motivation is a hugely complex beast. There was no lasting elation, only a feeling of relief. Soon after, another throw-away comment finalised a series of events that led me to give up climbing for good. Had I understood what was happening at the time I could have intervened before things progressed too far. In the end, ‘for good’ turned out to be almost 18 months, but it took a good friend to persuade me to return to the sport (for which I will be eternally grateful).
It’s not all sombreness though (there is always surfing after all 
) and as for the throw away comment as a junior; less than a year later I had shown my critic just how wrong he was and possibly showed myself that what is possible is limitless….even if motivation isn’t always.
Climbers are very critical. I know, I was one of the critics for far too long. I now realise the effects this can have on others. Chase your dreams like there is no tomorrow and shove the people who say ‘can’t’. Don’t let other people define your limits, they’re usually wrong and lack ambition.
The Spark that Re-Lit the Flame: Thanks to Rob Lamey for the Video!
I really feel a bit weird putting something so personal on the net, but I hope that some people who do find themselves in a similar situation (there is one in particular – you know who you are) maybe gain some tiny insight from it. More practical tips on keeping your motivation topped-up are to follow later in the week.
- Nige –